Typhoon
In all the years I served in Hong Kong I only once experienced the awesome power of a direct hit by a Typhoon. Her name was Mary.
The Typhoon signalling system was numeric. 1, 2, 3 were degrees of likelihood of being hit by a storm in the area. 4,5,6,7 were directional indicators and 8,9,10 indicated wind strength. Mary was a 10.
On the hoisting of number “one” general preparations were made, small boats taken out of the water etc but on “three” the whole unit complete with mooring pontoons set off to take shelter in the Typhoon anchorage.
Here within the lee of heavy sea defence walls buoys had been laid and to these we rafted up, every spare line was pressed into service as we all lashed ourselves together with heavy duty fenders in between. Some of us went ashore to buy bottles of San Mig beer to bring back on board, and there we sat to await the storm.
Local water people would come to the anchorage and, after all M.O.D. and Government craft were in place tucked themselves into any spare space until it was possible to walk ashore in almost any direction.
The sky was a clear bright blue overhead but heavily overcast in the distance. This darkness crept inexorably closer with sudden strong gusts of wayward wind flying from all directions; then it began to rain.
Within minutes the rain was so heavy that areas of exposed skin hurt as it was flayed by the wind driven droplets. The wind took a steady direction and the strength increased until it was possible to lean into it at which point your feet slid along the decking. A stack of large steel plates which had been placed on the sea wall were being flicked off like cards from a pack to flutter, fortunately, out over the harbour. Pumps were started and hand pumps pressed into service in an attempt to prevent the deluge swamping the boats. The noise was indescribable, a great roaring likened later to the sound of a jet engine, speech was impossible, miscellaneous items began to hit the boats which themselves were rearing and plunging at their lines.
The whole thing lasted less than a few hours before the rain stopped and the sun shone down through the eye of the storm. Frantic efforts were made to prepare for part two and as the storm continued on its remorseless passage the other side hit, this time the wind had shifted 180 degrees and everything weakened by the first onslaught now took a second hit.
Bamboo scaffolding is by its nature both strong and flexible but this proved too much and the air over the top of the anchorage walls filled with flying bamboo.
The storm proceeded inland and within hours had begun to break up. The whole thing had lasted no more than thirty six hours, but what a day and a half that was.
Hong Kong picked itself up and got back to work
About a week later a detail took my boat down the Tolo channel to Tai Po. You never have a camera when it’s really needed, large ocean going ships, many due for the breakers yard, had been laying here for protection but at the height of the storm a land slip at the seaward end of the channel had caused a large wave, the wind having found something to get a grip on had built it into a tidal wave that had raced down the narrow channel scattering the ships to the four winds. They lay broached too on the beaches some with their bow or stern several feet up a hillside, entrepreneurial locals had set up chow stalls and tea shops around them to cater to the sightseers and in Tai Po itself a full ocean going junk lay in the middle of the main street.
Back in Sham Shui Po some of the wives who lived in Jubilee Buildings had got together for a storm party. At the storms height a great crash had been heard from the flat below. On rushing down to discover the cause they found the flats door jammed solid. It transpired that something had broken a window and the wind, feeling its opportunity, had exploded into the flat carrying everything in its path and piling it against the door. Fortunately the girl who lived their had been one of those at the party.
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