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Hong Kong The Chinese Border in 1976 written by David Commerford
The Chinese border
Once I went to China and came back in a single day
The village of Sha Tau Kok sprawled across the Chinese border paying no heed to lines on maps, it looked as if it had been their before the lines were drawn anyway. Approaching the village from the new territories called for a prearranged pass to be shown at the border post then a drive through the one mile exclusion zone, the road leading directly to the police station left no doubt as to which side of the village belonged to whom. But the seaward approach was a little more ambiguous
The pier was shared by both the Communist and the Hong Kong authorities. One side each, the pier head being reserved for government vessels of either side .The border followed the line of a deep storm drain which split the village in two. Traversing the numerous bridges, some of them no more than a couple of planks, the villagers took absolutely no notice of the border and carried on with their daily lives in complete disregard of all around them. My first visit to the village was from the sea and on reaching the landward end of the pier I looked about for the union Jack and saw it diagonally to my right – No one had told me the drain took a dogleg through the village so I confidently set of over a stone bridge toward the flag On the other side of the bridge stood a soldier wearing combats and a soft cap, it was only when he turned that I saw the red star and his rifle. The look on my face must have been a picture; in any event he broke with Chinese etiquette by bursting into laughter and leaning against a wall for support. I for my part backed off the bridge and beat a hasty retreat. Apparently some weeks later the Infantry, changing Border guards by boat, came through the village one of them being an exceedingly tall guy who towered over his colleagues and the locals, the following week the Chinese had found a tall guy for their side just to keep face. |
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